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Cell #5, Room #7, Insein Prison
November, 1975
It was a cold winter night and the moon was shining outside. But
the moonlight couldn't enter our room because of the brick wall
in front of our cell. The floor was damp from the dew. There were
twenty-two rooms in cell #5. Each room in the cell was 9'x 7' and
13' high. A door with iron bars was the only way we got air and
dim light. There were three in the room at a time. All of us were
weak after four months of poor food. We ate only spoiled broken
rice, rotten fish paste with worms and bad smelling soup. We didn't
get any sunlight at all. Our skin had changed to a faint yellow
color. Myo Thant coughed with a cold. Tun Aung Gyaw was getting
thinner and thinner each day. I was tired all the time. We had to
do something. I broke the silence at last: "We have to eat those
underground fighters!"
There were a lot of rats (we called them "Underground
Fighters" ) in our cell. Actually rats, like the cheroots, were
luxuries in prison. You could trade rats easily for money, but they
weren't easy to find since everybody wanted them. We were living
in a prohibited area and only limited persons were allowed to come
to see us. Security was very tight here as if we were VIPs. Ha!
Ha!
They lived underneath our cells. Almost every room
has entrances for rats. There was an entrance about five inches
wide in the corner of our room. They didn't come out at daytime
and there was no sign they were there. But when the whole prison
went silent after nine o'clock, they appeared. They made noises
while searching for food and when they fought among themselves.
They didn't care about us and even ran over our feet. Sometimes
they bit our nails. Some of them were huge, and would weigh about
three pounds and some parts of their skin had no hair. They were
old but very strong.
So, at the time, except for Gen. Ne Win and his loyalists,
only those rats had freedom as their birth right in Burma. The difference
was Gen. Ne Win and his followers were going abroad all the time,
but those rats chose to stay inside the cells. The similarity was
that Gen. Ne Win and his group could have had all the delicious
food they wanted, and the rats could have all the rotten rice they
wanted. But their fortunes were soon changed.
At first, there were arguments among us. Tun Aung
said it was a cruel thing and he would feel guilty as a Buddhist.
Myo Thant said, "They may have diseases." But when I explained that
it was for our survival, Myo Thant supported me and in a democratic
way, we, the majority, approved the plan.
As there were no more objections to my proposal, I
made a secret bargain with the night shift warden. According to
the agreement we had to hand him the rats every morning before his
duty ended, and he would bring back a dish of fried rat in the evening.
So, from that night onwards, our "Underground Revolution"
started. We cleaned a glazed earthen basin that was given to us
for use as the toilet bowl. We made a string six feet long and found
a stick of about six inches. We tied the string to the bottom of
the stick and used it to prop up one side of the basin, near the
rats' entrance. We threw some rice under the basin and pretended
as if we had fallen asleep while holding the other end of string.
It was almost midnight when our first prey appeared. As the rat
crawled under the basin, I pulled the string and it fell over him.
He tried hard to escape by pushing around from inside. I ran to
the basin and pressed with my foot while Tun Aung tried to catch
his tail. Then he pulled the rat from under the basin, little by
little, until half of his body appeared. I was pressing the basin
the whole time. Then Tun Aung broke the rats back by pulling up
hard on his tail. We heard the sound of the spinal cord break, "Jook!"
We got five that night and we had our "Grand Dinner" the next day.
We released the news to the others and word of our revolution spread
quickly. Believe me, there are not enough words to describe the
taste of rat meat. It was fried with red pepper and ginger. The
ribs were the best - very crispy. To be honest, it was the most
delicious meat I have eaten in my life.
To the best of my knowledge, we successfully captured
more than three hundred "Underground Fighters" in Insein prison.
In this way, the rats supported us. We got our energy and courage
back again. I might not be here today if I hadn't eaten those rats
during my prison term. Some of our inmates died of malnutrition.
Thank you, Mr. Rat.
Twenty-five years have passed, but I still remember
them, especially when I have barbecue ribs. So the next time you
eat barbecue ribs, please remember this: someone is chewing on a
rat's ribs in a part of this wonderful world. Then, you'll be sympathetic
to the political prisoners in Burma.
"Oh, how I can still smell those ribs with red
pepper and ginger."
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